Re Orienting Fashion

This book explores Asian fashion in a global economic and cultural context. In itself, this is pathbreaking because fashion studies have traditionally divided along the boundaries of the western/non-western dichotomy.

Re Orienting Fashion

Asian fashion has become a global phenomenon of significant economic, political and social import. But the industry in Asia remains characterized by the gap between traditional centres of fashion and power and the relatively marginalized periphery that includes Asia. The resulting fashions are ambiguous: despite their indigenous origins and inspiration, their survival depends upon the West. This book explores Asian fashion in a global economic and cultural context. In itself, this is pathbreaking because fashion studies have traditionally divided along the boundaries of the western/non-western dichotomy. When both production and consumption cut through these traditional boundaries, new fashion principles are expressed globally. How are western economic, cultural, political, iconic, and social forms inscribed in indigenous Asian fashion when (and often because) that fashion is an expression of resistance against western encroachment? How does dress become an active site for the negotiation of state ideals and gender roles in nations struggling to construct new identities informed by modern, western impulses? What role does gender play in negotiating dress symbols and how does this tie in with commodification by the global economic system? With chapters focusing on East, South, and Southeast Asian designers, retailers, consumers, and governments, this book moves Asian fashion centre-stage and should be of interest to dress and fashion theorists, anthropologists, sociologists and all those seeking to understand globalization and its effects

Arts in the Margins of World Encounters

In Re-Orienting Fashion: The Globalization of Asian Dress, edited by Sandra Niessen, Ann Marie Leshkowich and Carla Jones, 49–78. Oxford, New York: Berg. Niessen, Sandra. 2003b. “Afterword: Re-Orienting Fashion Theory.” In Re-Orienting ...

Arts in the Margins of World Encounters

'Arts in the Margins of World Encounters' presents original contributions that deal with artworks of differently marginalized people—such as ethnic minorities, refugees, immigrants, disabled people, and descendants of slaves—, a wide variety of art forms—like clay figures, textile, paintings, poems, museum exhibits and theatre performances—, and original data based on committed, long-term fieldwork and/or archival research in Brazil, Martinique, Rwanda, India, Indonesia, Japan, Australia, and New Zealand. The volume develops theoretical approaches inspired by innovative theorists and is based on currently debated analytical categories including the ethnographic turn in contemporary art, polycentric aesthetics, and aesthetic cannibalization, among others. This collection also incorporates fascinating and intriguing contemporary cases, but with solid theoretical arguments and grounds. 'Arts in the Margins of World Encounters' will appeal to students at all levels, scholars, and practitioners in arts, aesthetics, anthropology, social inequality, and discrimination, as well as researchers in other fields, including post-colonialism and cultural organizations.

Fashion and Orientalism

Skov, 'Fashion-Nation', 240–1. Carla Jones and Ann Marie Leshkowich, 'Introduction: The Globalization of Asian Dress; Re-orienting Fashion or Re-Orientalising Asia?', in Sandra Niessen et al., eds, Re-Orienting Fashion, 18–19.

Fashion and Orientalism

This fascinating and wide-ranging book reveals the influence that the Orient had, and continues to have, on fashion.

Indian Fashion

“(En)countering Orientalism in high fashion: a review of India fashion week 2002.” Fashion Theory, 7(3/4), 361–76. Niessen, S. (2003). “Afterword: Re-Orienting Fashion Theory,” in S. Niessen, A. M. Leshkowich, and C. Jones (eds), ...

Indian Fashion

Fashion in India is distinctly unique, in its aesthetics, systems, designers and influences. Indian Fashion is the first study of its kind to examine the social, political, global and local elements that give shape to this multifaceted center. Spanning India's long historical contribution to global fashion to the emergence of today's vibrant local fashion scene, Sandhu provides a comprehensive overview of the Indian fashion world. From elite high-end to street style of the masses, the book explores the complex realities of Indian dress through key issues such as identity, class, youth and media. This ground-breaking book does not simply apply western fashion theory to an Indian context, but allows for a holistic understanding of how fashion is created, worn, displayed and viewed in India. Accessibly written, Indian Fashion will be a fantastic resource for students of fashion, cultural studies and anthropology.

Moroccan Fashion

(2003), Re-Orienting Fashion: The Globalization of Asian Dress, oxford, new York: Berg. niessen, s. (2003), 'afterword: re-orienting Fashion Theory,' in niessen, s., a. M. Leshkowich and c. Jone (2003), Re-Orienting Fashion: The ...

Moroccan Fashion

Moroccan garment design and consumption have experienced major shifts in recent history, transforming from a traditional craft-based enterprise to a thriving fashion industry. Influenced by western fashion, dress has become commoditized and has expanded from tailoring to designer labels. This book presents the first detailed ethnographic study of Moroccan fashion. Drawing on interviews with three generations of designers and the lifestyle press, the author provides an in-depth analysis of the development of urban dress, which reveals how traditional dress has not been threatened but rather produced and consumed in different ways. With chapters examining themes such as dress and politics, gender, faith, modernity, and exploring topics from craft to e-fashion, this book will be essential reading for students and scholars of fashion, anthropology, material culture, sociology, cultural studies, gender studies and related fields.

Islamic Fashion and Anti Fashion

Moors, A. (2007), 'Fashionable Muslims: Notions of Self, Religion and Society in San'a', Fashion Theory 11, ... Niessen, S. (2003), 'Afterword: Re-orienting Fashion Theory', in S. Niessen, A. Leshkowich and C. Jones C., eds., ...

Islamic Fashion and Anti Fashion

Introducing innovative new research from international scholars working on Islamic fashion and its critics, Islamic Fashion and Anti-Fashion provides a global perspective on muslim dress practices. The book takes a broad geographic sweep, bringing together the sartorial experiences of Muslims in locations as diverse as Paris, the Canadian Prairie, Swedish and Italian bath houses and former socialist countries of Eastern Europe. What new Islamic dress practices and anxieties are emerging in these different locations? How far are they shaped by local circumstances, migration histories, particular religious traditions, multicultural interfaces and transnational links? To what extent do developments in and debates about Islamic dress cut across such local specificities, encouraging new channels of communication and exchange? With original contributions from the fields of anthropology, fashion studies, media studies, religious studies, history, geography and cultural studies, Islamic Fashion and Anti-Fashion will be of interest to students and scholars working in these fields as well as to general readers interested in the public presence of Islam in Europe and America.

Fashion and Beauty in the Time of Asia

“Three Scenarios from Batak Clothing History: Designing Participation in the Global Fashion Trajectory.” In Re-Orienting Fashion: The Globalization of Asian Dress, edited by Sandra Niessen, Ann Marie Leshkowich, and Carla Jones, 49–78.

Fashion and Beauty in the Time of Asia

How transnational modernity is taking shape in and in relation to Asia Fashion and Beauty in the Time of Asia considers the role of bodily aesthetics in the shaping of Asian modernities and the formation of the so-called “Asian Century.” S. Heijin Lee, Christina H. Moon, and Thuy Linh Nguyen Tu train our eyes on sites as far-flung, varied, and intimate as Guangzhou and Los Angeles, Saigon and Seoul, New York and Toronto. They map the transregional connections, ever-evolving aspirations and sensibilities, and new worlds and life paths forged through engagements with fashion and beauty. Contributors consider American influence on plastic surgery in Korea, Vietnamese debates about “the fashionable,” and the costs and commitments demanded of those who make and wear fast fashion, from Chinese garment workers to Nepalese nail technicians in New York who are mandated to dress "fashionably." In doing so, this interdisciplinary anthology moves beyond common characterizations of Asians and the Asian diaspora as simply abject laborers or frenzied consumers, analyzing who the modern Asian subject is now: what they wear and how they work, move, eat, and shop.

Fashion History

Niessen, S. (2003), “Re-Orienting Fashion Theory,” in S. Niessen, A. M. Leshkowich, and C. Jones (eds.), Re-Orienting Fashion: The Globalization of Asian Dress, 243–66, Oxford: Berg.

Fashion History

Fashion History: A Global View proposes a new perspective on fashion history. Arguing that fashion has occurred in cultures beyond the West throughout history, this groundbreaking book explores the geographic places and historical spaces that have been largely neglected by contemporary fashion studies, bringing them together for the first time. Reversing the dominant narrative that privileges Western Europe in the history of dress, Welters and Lillethun adopt a cross-cultural approach to explore a vast array of cultures around the globe. They explore key issues affecting fashion systems, ranging from innovation, production and consumption to identity formation and the effects of colonization. Case studies include the cross-cultural trade of silk textiles in Central Asia, the indigenous dress of the Americas and of Hawai'i, the cosmetics of the Tang Dynasty in China, and stylistic innovation in sub-Saharan Africa. Examining the new lessons that can be deciphered from archaeological findings and theoretical advancements, the book shows that fashion history should be understood as a global phenomenon, originating well before and beyond the fourteenth century European court, which is continually, and erroneously, cited as fashion's birthplace. Providing a fresh framework for fashion history scholarship, Fashion History: A Global View will inspire inclusive dress narratives for students and scholars of fashion, anthropology, and cultural studies.

The Force of Fashion in Politics and Society

... The Globalization of Asian Dress: Re-Orienting Fashion (Oxford and New York, 2003), pp. 1¥48. 28 Karen Tranberg Hansen, Salaula: The World of Secondhand Clothing and Zambia (Chicago, 2000), p. 4 and Karen Tranberg Hansen, ...

The Force of Fashion in Politics and Society

Throughout history, fashion has emerged as one of the most powerful driving forces determining the political, economic and social ramifications of the production, distribution and circulation of goods. Indeed fashion, especially in relation to clothing and textiles, shapes the relationship between self and society in unique ways. In this light, the collected papers in this volume position fashion as the lens - the critical mediating force - through which to analyse and understand cultural, economic and political shifts within a broad spectrum of societies in Europe, Asia, Africa and America from the seventeenth to twenty-first centuries. Topics include a seventeenth-century failing fashion region, the material politics of marketing American abolitionist fashions, the construction of a fashionable ethos for French perfumes, and the use and meanings of clothing and textiles in the politics of Nigerian silk robes and early modern domestic décor in Europe. This volume represents an important shift in scholarship towards a more in-depth understanding of the role of fashion in early modern and modern times and will appeal to international readers interested in material culture, fashion, consumer studies and cultural anthropology, among other areas.

Modern Fashion Traditions

Negotiating Tradition and Modernity through Fashion M. Angela Jansen, Jennifer Craik. Halter, Marilyn. ... “Afterword: Re-Orienting Fashion Theory.” In Re-Orienting Fashion: The Globalization of Asian Dress, eds.

Modern Fashion Traditions

Modern Fashion Traditions questions the dynamics of fashion systems and spaces of consumption outside the West. Too often, these fashion systems are studied as a mere and recent result of globalization and Western fashion influences, but this book draws on a wide range of non-Western case studies and analyses their similarities and differences as legitimate fashion systems, contesting Eurocentric notions of tradition and modernity, continuity versus change, and 'the West versus the Rest'. Preconceptions about non-Western fashion are challenged through diverse case studies from international scholars, including street-style identity in Bhutan, the influence of Ottoman cultural heritage on contemporary Turkish fashion design, and an investigation into the origins of the word 'fashion' in Chinese. Negotiating tradition, foreign influences and the contemporary global dominance of Western fashion cities, Modern Fashion Traditions will give readers a clearer understanding of non-Western fashion identities in the present. Accessibly written, this ground-breaking text makes an essential contribution to the study of non-Western fashion and will be an important resource for students of fashion history and theory, anthropology, and cultural studies.

Fashion and Materiality

In Modern Fashion Traditions: Negotiating Tradition and Modernity through Fashion , edited by M. Angela Jansen and Jennifer Craik , 209–18 . London : Bloomsbury . Niessen , Sandra . 2003. “ Afterword: Re-Orienting Fashion Theory ,” In ...

Fashion and Materiality

Fashion is intimately tied to the material world. With a focus on diverse cultural practices, this book offers new insights into the dynamic relationships between fashion, bodies, and material culture. In a series of original case studies, both historical and contemporary, the collection explores how fashion and clothing affect articulations of body and self, experiences of time and place, and the shaping of social and local/global relationships. With chapters from leading international scholars, Fashion and Materiality takes the reader from the study of clothing and biography, and an early modern “foreign dress” collection, to Chinoiserie clothing in 18th-century Europe and fast fashion production in today's China. The book also examines fashion's role in nation building, and entanglements between fashion and migration across clothing donations for Syrian refugees in Germany and the circulation of “refugee chic” on international fashion runways. Scrutinizing the dense connections between fashion, clothing, materiality, and humanity, the book shows how the material interacts forcefully with the personal and political.

African Fashion Global Style

“Introduction: The Globalization of Asian Dress: Re-Orienting Fashion or Re-Orientalizing Asia.” In Re-Orienting Fashion: The Globalization of Asian Dress, ed. Sandra Niessen, Ann Marie Leshkowich, and Carla Jones, 1–48.

African Fashion  Global Style

African Fashion, Global Style provides a lively look at fashion, international networks of style, material culture, and the world of African aesthetic expression. Victoria L. Rovine introduces fashion designers whose work reflects African histories and cultures both conceptually and stylistically, and demonstrates that dress styles associated with indigenous cultures may have all the hallmarks of high fashion. Taking readers into the complexities of influence and inspiration manifested through fashion, this book highlights the visually appealing, widely accessible, and highly adaptable styles of African dress that flourish on the global fashion market.

Fashionable Traditions

Modern Fashion Traditions: Negotiating Tradition and Modernity through Fashion. London et al. ... In Re-Orienting Fashion: The Globalization of Asian Dress, edited by Sandra Niessen, Ann Marie Leshkowich, and Carla Jones, 243–66.

Fashionable Traditions

Textiles play a decisive role in history: attire not only indicates status, gender, ethnicity, and religion but illustrates how such boundaries are continuously being negotiated, shifted, and recreated. Fashionable Traditions captures the complex reality of Asian handmade textile production and consumption. From traditionalist discourse and cultural authenticity to fashion and market trends, the contributors to this collection demonstrate the multilayered influence of often contradictory forces. In-depth, ethnographic case studies reveal the entangled relationships between local artisans, external interventions, and consumers, while acknowledging the broader frameworks in which such relationships are situated. Together these stories offer a vivid account of the socio-economic, political, and cultural dynamics in various parts of Asia and emphasize that fashion is neither a Western prerogative nor do its roots reside solely in the West.

Veiling in Fashion

... orienting fashion theory', in Sandra Niessen, A. Leshkowich and Carla Jones (eds), Re-orienting fashion. Oxford: Berg. Niessen, Sandra (2010). 'Interpreting “Civilization” through Dress', in Lise Skov (ed.) ...

Veiling in Fashion

Veiling in Fashion enters the worlds of women who wear the hijab, both as an aspect of their religious observance and community belonging, and as a fashion statement, drawing upon global Islamic fashion history. The book uses rich ethnographic investigation of everyday veiling practices among Muslim women in the city of Helsinki as a lens through which to reflect on and advance understanding of matters concerning Muslim dress in international Muslim minority contexts. The book provides an innovative approach to studying veiling by connecting varied realms of practice, demonstrating how domains as apparently separate as fashion, materiality, city spaces, private life, religious beliefs, and cosmopolitan social conditions are all tightly bound up together in ways that only a sensitive multi-disciplinary approach can reveal. It will appeal to scholars and students in fashion, gender, religion, material cultures, and the construction of space.

Fashion Media

Neissen, S. (2003), 'Afterword: Re-orienting Fashion Theory', in S. Niessen, A. M. Leshkowich and C. Jones (eds), Re-orienting Fashion: The Globalization ofAsian Dress, Oxford: Berg, 243–66. Peterkin, T. (2008).

Fashion Media

The fashion media is in the midst of deep social and technological change. Including a broad range of case studies, from fashion plates to fashion films, and from fashion magazines to fashion blogs, this ground-breaking book provides an up-to-date examination of the role and significance of this field. Winner of the PCA/ACA Ray and Pat Browne Award for Best Edited Collection, Fashion Media includes chapters written by international scholars covering topics from historic magazine cultures and contemporary digital innovations to art and film, exploring themes such as gender, ethnicity, design, taste and authorship. Highlighting the complexity of processes that bind design, design, technology, society and identity together, Fashion Media will be of be essential reading for students of fashion studies, cultural studies, visual culture studies, design history, communications and art and design practice and theory.

Luxury Indian Fashion

Jones, C. and A. M. Leshkowich (2003), 'Introduction: The Globalization of Asian Dress: Re-Orienting Fashion or Re-Orientalizing India?', in S. Niessen, A. M. Leshkowich and C. Jone (eds) Re-Orienting Fashion: The Globalization of Asian ...

Luxury Indian Fashion

This unique ethnographic investigation examines the role that fashion plays in the production of the contemporary Indian luxury aesthetic. Tracking luxury Indian fashion from its production in village craft workshops via upmarket design studios to fashion soirées, Kuldova investigates the Indian luxury fashion market's dependence on the production of thousands of artisans all over India, revealing a complex system of hierarchies and exploitation. In recent years, contemporary Indian design has dismissed the influence of the West and has focused on the opulent heritage luxury of the maharajas, Gulf monarchies and the Mughal Empire. Luxury Indian Fashion argues that the desire for a luxury aesthetic has become a significant force in the attempt to define contemporary Indian society. From the cultivation of erotic capital in businesswomen's dress to a discussion of masculinity and muscular neo-royals to staged designer funerals, Luxury Indian Fashion analyzes the production, consumption and aesthetics of luxury and power in India. Luxury Indian Fashion is essential reading for students of fashion history and theory, anthropology and visual culture.

Fashion Interior Design and the Contours of Modern Identity

'Introduction: The Globalization of Asian Dress: Re-Orienting Fashion or Re-Orientalizing Asia?', in Carla Jones, Sandra Niessen and Ann Marie Leshkowich (eds.), Re-Orienting Fashion: The Globalization of Asian Dress.

 Fashion  Interior Design and the Contours of Modern Identity

Challenging the notion that fashion and furniture were or are separate enterprises and distinct material aesthetic traditions, this collection focuses on three material and conceptual links central to understanding the relationship between interior design and fashion-the body, fabric, and space. The volume considers the changing visual, material and spatial character, methodological challenges posed by, and formal, political and historiographical significance of, a wide range of British, European and North American case studies since the eighteenth century. The volume's eleven case studies allow the reader to understand connecting notions behind the formation of interiors and fashionable clothing. The essays combine a wide range of significant and challenging new examples alongside powerful reversionary analyses of the various periods, artists, designers, and their best and significant objects. Fashion, Interior Design and the Contours of Modern Identity is concerned not only with fabric, but also with the body and the implications of embodiment in the practices of both design domains which are equally invested in the comfort, aesthetic pleasure, extension and support of the body in different and yet seemingly identical ways.

Contemporary Indonesian Fashion

Slow Fashion: Aesthetics Meets Ethics. ... The Beautiful Generation: Asian Americans and the Cultural Economy of Fashion. ... In Re-Orienting Fashion: The Globalization of Asian Dress, S. Niessen, A. Leshkowich and C. Jones eds.

Contemporary Indonesian Fashion

Indonesian fashion has undergone a period of rapid growth over the last three decades. This book explores how through years of social, political, and cultural upheaval, the country's fashion has moved away from “colonial fashion” and “national dress” to claim its own distinct identity as contemporary fashion in a global world. With specific reference to women's wear, Contemporary Indonesian Fashion explores the diversity and complexity of the country's sartorial offerings, which weave together local textile traditions like batik and ikat-making with contemporary narratives. The book questions concepts of “tradition” and “modernity” in the developing world, taking stock of the elite consumption of luxury brands and the large-scale manufacturing of fast fashion, and introduces us to the rise of new trends such as busana muslim (or “modest wear”), creating a portrait of a vibrant and growing national and, increasingly, international, industry. Exploring clothing in shopping malls, on the catwalk, in magazines, and online, the book examines how Indonesian fashion is made, presented, and consumed, combining research in Indonesia with analysis and personal reflection. Contemporary Indonesian Fashion ultimately questions the deeply entrenched eurocentrism of "global fashion", simultaneously interrogating current homogenizing beauty and body image discourses posited as universal, by pointing to absences, silences, and erasures as reflected by contemporary Indonesian fashion- hence the "looking glass" of the title. Aptly illustrated, the book offers a new perspective on a rapidly developing new fashion capital, Jakarta.

Transglobal Fashion Narratives

McNeil, P., Karaminas, V. and Cole, C. (2009), Fashion in Fiction: Text and Clothing in Literature, Film, ... Niessen, S. (2003), 'Afterword: Re-orienting fashion theory', in S. Niessen, A. M. Leshkowich and C. Jones (eds), ReOrienting ...

Transglobal Fashion Narratives

Everywhere we look, people are using fashion to communicate self and society—who they are, and where they belong. Transglobal Fashion Narratives presents an international, interdisciplinary analysis of those narratives. Moving from sweatshop to runway, page to screen, camera to blog, and artist to audience, the book examines fashion as a mediated form of content in branding, as a literary and filmic device, and as a personal form of expression by industry professionals, journalists, and bloggers.

Fashion Exploring Critical Issues

4Tsui, Christine, China Fashion: Conversations with Designers (Oxford and New York: Berg, 2010), Berg Fashion Library ... 23 Sandra Niessen, 'Afterword: Re-Orienting Fashion Theory', in Re-Orienting Fashion: The Globalization of Asian ...

Fashion  Exploring Critical Issues

This ebook is an inter-disciplinary collection of topics representing conventional and unconventional approaches to fashion studies, exposing a wide variety of methodological perspectives from fields including anthropology, history, art history, sociology, and material culture.