" Margaretha Van Den Bosch, Head Of Design At H&M "This book is indispensable for anyone interested in fashion. History has never been more alive than in the pages of this Reader.
Author: Giorgio Riello
"Fashion is a slippery subject, that's why we love her so. This work covers fascinating new territories and bridges the way for much future development with its inspired research, written by the best minds and eyes in the field today...surely to become a classic monument for fashion detectives." Ruben Toledo, Fashion Artist And Illustrator "At last a book that brings it all together, from Madame Gres' elegance to grunge in Japan." Martine Sitbon, Fashion Designer "Now, the key contributions from nearly every expert in the field are assembled in one fascinating book. This kaleidoscopic and informative volume ranges impressively across conventional boundaries of chronology. geography. and discipline." Glenn Adamson, Victoria And Albert Museum "Breaking down barriers, in this book you will discover how fashion has always been a global phenomenon." Margaretha Van Den Bosch, Head Of Design At H&M "This book is indispensable for anyone interested in fashion. History has never been more alive than in the pages of this Reader." Patrizia Calefato, University Of Bari, Italy History is uncomfortable with fashion and fashion frequently denies its own history. Why? This path-breaking analysis presents the views of over seventy leading academics of many cultures and spans the twelfth to the twentieth centuries. The Fashion History Reader is an innovative work that provides a broad introduction to the complex literature in the fields of fashion studies, and dress and fashion history. Twenty-three chapters and over forty shorter "snapshot" texts cover a wide range of topics and approaches within the history of fashion, ranging from object-based studies to theory-driven analyses. Themes also move in and across time, providing a chronology to enable student learning. A comprehensive introduction by the editors contextualises the debates for students, synthesising past history and bringing them up to date through a discussion of globalisation. Each section also includes a short, accessible introduction by the editors, placing each chapter within the wider, thematic treatment of fashion and its history. There are also highly detailed further reading sections which encourage students to enhance their learning independently.
Introduction: The Field of Men's Fashion Part 1. A History of Men's Fashion Part 2. Masculinity and Sexuality Part 3. Icons: The Evolution of Men's Wear Part 4. Subculture Part 5. Consuming and Creating Style Conclusion
Author: Peter McNeil
Publisher: Bloomsbury USA Academic
The Men's Fashion Reader brings together key writings in the history, culture and identity of men's fashion. The readings provide a balanced range of important methodological approaches, primary research and significant case studies. The book is organized into thematic sections covering topics such as history, theory, subculture, iconic items of clothing, consumption and the media. Each section is introduced and concludes with an annotated guide to further reading. With exciting illustrations of men's dress from a range of historical periods, and including readings from key scholars and new writers across a wide range of fields, The Men's Fashion Reader is the essential introduction to the subject. Introduction: The Field of Men's Fashion Part 1. A History of Men's Fashion Part 2. Masculinity and Sexuality Part 3. Icons: The Evolution of Men's Wear Part 4. Subculture Part 5. Consuming and Creating Style Conclusion
92 Mentges, “European Fashion (1450–1950)”, 4. 93 Sarah Grace Heller, “Birth of Fashion” in Giorgio Riello and Peter McNeil, eds., The Fashion History Reader: Global Perspectives (Abingdon, Oxon; New York: Routledge, 2010), 27.
Author: Ina Baghdiantz McCabe
In A History of Global Consumption: 1500 – 1800, Ina Baghdiantz McCabe examines the history of consumption throughout the early modern period using a combination of chronological and thematic discussion, taking a comprehensive and wide-reaching view of a subject that has long been on the historical agenda. The title explores the topic from the rise of the collector in Renaissance Europe to the birth of consumption as a political tool in the eighteenth century. Beginning with an overview of the history of consumption and the major theorists, such as Bourdieu, Elias and Barthes, who have shaped its development as a field, Baghdiantz McCabe approaches the subject through a clear chronological framework. Supplemented by illlustrations in every chapter and ranging in scope from an analysis of the success of American commodities such as tobacco, sugar and chocolate in Europe and Asia to a discussion of the Dutch tulip mania, A History of Global Consumption: 1500 – 1800 is the perfect guide for all students interested in the social, cultural and economic history of the early modern period.
In The Fashion History Reader [see], p. 238–256. Richardson, C. (ed.), Clothing Culture, 1350–1650. Aldershot: Ashgate. Jirousek, C. (2004). Ottoman Influences on Western Dress. In S. Faroqhi and C. K. Neumann (eds.) ...
Author: Romana Andò
Publisher: Edizioni Nuova Cultura
This collection of contributions was created to prove both the complexity of the contemporary fashion system as well as the richness and openness of an interdisciplinary approach to the field, that is the same that inspires the Master programme in Fashion Studies at Sapienza, University of Rome. All the authors – either scholars or professionals in their fields – are deeply involved in this educational project and they have conceived each contribution as a pedagogic tool for supporting students in better understanding the social, cultural, economic, technological, creative, environmental aspects of fashion. Therefore, this collection aimed at providing readers with a kaleidoscopic approach, a multitude of voices and perspectives; a set of blended methodologies as well as theories that try to address the challenges of the permanent and accelerating transformations of the fashion system. To understand the future of fashion we have to foster creative as well as critical thinking, working on the knowledge we got from the past and identifying changes in advance, in order to be ready – and prepared – for the challenges that are in front of us.
The History and Philosophy of Footwear in Film (Edinburgh: Edinburgh University Press, 2020), 5. 2. ... Additional publications more historically oriented are the Fashion History Reader Global Perspectives, edited by Giorgio Riello and ...
Author: Eugenia Paulicelli
Category: Social Science
This collection of original essays interrogates disciplinary boundaries in fashion, gathering fashion studies research across disciplines and from around the globe. Fashion and clothing are part of material and visual culture, cultural memory, and heritage; they contribute to shaping the way people see themselves, interact, and consume. For each of the volume’s eight parts, scholars from across the world and a variety of disciplines offer analytical tools for further research. Never neglecting the interconnectedness of disciplines and domains, these original contributions survey specific topics and critically discuss the leading views in their areas. They include discursive and reflective pieces, as well as discussions of original empirical work, and contributors include established leaders in the field, rising stars, and new voices, including practioner and industry voices. This is a comprehensive overview of the field, ideal not only for undergraduate and postgraduate fashion studies students, but also for researchers and students in communication studies, the humanities, gender and critical race studies, social sciences, and fashion design and business.
in vulgar designs (e.g., mock leopard skin) and 'nasty' colours, long discarded by the quality end of the fashion industry as obsolete kitsch, were salvaged by the punks and ... Some young punks even donned 178 THE ROCK HISTORY READER.
Author: Theo Cateforis
The Rock History Reader is an eclectic compilation of readings that tells the history of rock as it has been received and explained as a social and musical practice throughout its six decade history. The readings range from the vivid autobiographical accounts of such rock icons as Ronnie Spector and David Lee Roth to the writings of noted rock critics like Lester Bangs and Chuck Klosterman. It also includes a variety of selections from media critics, musicologists, fanzine writers, legal experts, sociologists and prominent political figures. Many entries also deal specifically with distinctive styles such as Motown, punk, disco, grunge, rap and indie rock. Each entry includes headnotes, which place it in its historical context. This second edition includes new readings on the early years of rhythm & blues and rock 'n' roll, as well as entries on payola, mods, the rise of FM rock, progressive rock and the PMRC congressional hearings. In addition, there is a wealth of new material on the 2000s that explores such relatively recent developments as emo, mash ups, the explosion of internet culture and new media, and iconic figures like Radiohead and Lady Gaga. With numerous readings that delve into the often explosive issues surrounding censorship, copyright, race relations, feminism, youth subcultures, and the meaning of musical value, The Rock History Reader continues to appeal to scholars and students from a variety of disciplines.
She is currently investigating the practice of fashion in various European social communities and has a ... the Routledge Fashion History Reader (forthcoming) and the Encyclopedia of the Material Culture of American Slave Life ...
Author: Beverly Lemire
Throughout history, fashion has emerged as one of the most powerful driving forces determining the political, economic and social ramifications of the production, distribution and circulation of goods. Indeed fashion, especially in relation to clothing and textiles, shapes the relationship between self and society in unique ways. In this light, the collected papers in this volume position fashion as the lens - the critical mediating force - through which to analyse and understand cultural, economic and political shifts within a broad spectrum of societies in Europe, Asia, Africa and America from the seventeenth to twenty-first centuries. Topics include a seventeenth-century failing fashion region, the material politics of marketing American abolitionist fashions, the construction of a fashionable ethos for French perfumes, and the use and meanings of clothing and textiles in the politics of Nigerian silk robes and early modern domestic décor in Europe. This volume represents an important shift in scholarship towards a more in-depth understanding of the role of fashion in early modern and modern times and will appeal to international readers interested in material culture, fashion, consumer studies and cultural anthropology, among other areas.
(2004), The Rise of Fashion: A Reader, Minneapolis: University of Minneapolis Press. Rabine, L. W. (2002), The Global ... Riello, G., and P. McNeil, eds (2010), The Fashion History Reader: Global Perspectives, New York: Routledge.
Author: Linda Welters
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
Fashion History: A Global View proposes a new perspective on fashion history. Arguing that fashion has occurred in cultures beyond the West throughout history, this groundbreaking book explores the geographic places and historical spaces that have been largely neglected by contemporary fashion studies, bringing them together for the first time. Reversing the dominant narrative that privileges Western Europe in the history of dress, Welters and Lillethun adopt a cross-cultural approach to explore a vast array of cultures around the globe. They explore key issues affecting fashion systems, ranging from innovation, production and consumption to identity formation and the effects of colonization. Case studies include the cross-cultural trade of silk textiles in Central Asia, the indigenous dress of the Americas and of Hawai'i, the cosmetics of the Tang Dynasty in China, and stylistic innovation in sub-Saharan Africa. Examining the new lessons that can be deciphered from archaeological findings and theoretical advancements, the book shows that fashion history should be understood as a global phenomenon, originating well before and beyond the fourteenth century European court, which is continually, and erroneously, cited as fashion's birthplace. Providing a fresh framework for fashion history scholarship, Fashion History: A Global View will inspire inclusive dress narratives for students and scholars of fashion, anthropology, and cultural studies.
[see Bars] More than half the advertisements on the back page of the Berlin daily 8 Uhr-Abendblatt invite the readers to dance events. With a slogan that seems inspired by the fashion for nonsense poetry, the Weidenhof, “Berlin's most ...
Author: Keith Jenkins
Publisher: Psychology Press
The question of what the nature of history is, is now a key issue for all students of history. It is now recognised by many that the past and history are different phenomena and that the way the past is actively historicised can be highly problematic and contested. Older metaphysical, ontological, epistemological, methodological and ethical assumptions can no longer be taken as read. In this timely collection, key pieces of writing by leading historians are reproduced and evaluated, with an explanation and critique of their character and assumptions, and how they reflect upon the nature of the history project. The authors respond to the view that the nature of history has become so disparate in assumption, approach and practice as to require an informed guide that is both self-reflexive, engaged, critical and innovative. This work seeks to aid a positive re-thinking of history today, and will be of use both to students and to their teachers.
In drawing plans, I knew well enough from my previous reading and in working as an editorial assistant on New Literary History that the foremost reason for any journal's success was its defining editorial vision. I came to see, ...
Author: Gordon Hutner
Publisher: Oxford University Press on Demand
In its first five years, American Literary History has produced an exciting body of work representing the full range of American literary critical practices at a time when no consensus in the field exists. This collection brings together the cream of this cutting-edge work, presenting seventeen of the most significant voices in the argument over literature's importance. Among the contributors and issues included in the anthology are Hertha D. Wong on Indian pictographs and the language of selfhood they inscribe, David Lionel Smith on the Black Arts Movement, Henry Louis Gates, Jr. on the new pluralism, David Leverenz on the "representative man" and gender politics, Betsy Erkkila on Dickinson and class, and Ramï¿½n Saldivar on the literature of the border. A state of the art look at American literary criticism, this handy compendium will interest all scholars and students in the field, regardless of their familiarity with the journal.
... 2000); G. Riello and P. McNeil, The Fashion History Reader (New york: Routledge, 2010). Karen Tranberg Hansen, “The World in Dress: Anthropological Perspectives on Clothing, Fashion, and Culture,” Annual Review of Anthropology 33, ...
Author: Alexandra Palmer
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
Over the last century there has been a complete transformation of the fashion system. The unitary top-down fashion cycle has been replaced by the pulsations of multiple and simultaneous styles, while the speed of global production and circulation has become ever faster and more complex. Running in tandem, the development of artificial fibres has revolutionized the composition of clothing, and the increased focus on youth, sexuality, and the body has radically changed its design. From the 1920s flapper dress to debates over the burkini, fashion has continued to be deeply involved in society's larger issues. Drawing on a wealth of visual, textual and object sources and illustrated with 100 images, A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Modern Age presents essays on textiles, production and distribution, the body, belief, gender and sexuality, status, ethnicity, and visual and literary representations to illustrate the diversity and cultural significance of dress and fashion in the period.
Release on 2018-06-06 | by Rebecca-Anne C. Do Rozario
In The Spectator: Stereotype Edition, 275. London: Isaac, Tuckey, and Co., 1836. Riello, Giorgio. “Fashion, Fabrics and the orient.” In The Fashion History Reader: Global Perspectives, edited by Giorgio Riello and Peter McNeil, 40–42.
Author: Rebecca-Anne C. Do Rozario
This book is a journey through the fairy-tale wardrobe, explaining how the mercurial nature of fashion has shaped and transformed the Western fairy-tale tradition. Many of fairy tale’s most iconic images are items of dress: the glass slippers, the red capes, the gowns shining like the sun, and the red shoes. The material cultures from which these items have been conjured reveal the histories of patronage, political intrigue, class privilege, and sexual politics behind the most famous fairy tales. The book not only reveals the sartorial truths behind Cinderella’s lost slippers, but reveals the networks of female power woven into fairy tale itself.
Release on 2014-05-30 | by Tove Engelhardt Mathiassen
Miller, Lesley Ellis (2010) Fashion and silk design. In G. Riello and P. McNeil (eds), The Fashion History Reader. Global Perspectives, 214–216. London and New York. Nikander, Gabriel (1945) Kokkolan kaupungin historia II osa.
Author: Tove Engelhardt Mathiassen
Publisher: Oxbow Books
Category: Crafts & Hobbies
At the heart of this anthology lies the world of fashion: a concept that pervades the realm of clothes and dress; appearances and fashionable manners; interior design; ideas and attitudes. Here sixteen papers focus on the Nordic world (Denmark, Norway, Sweden Finland, Iceland, the Faroe Isles and Greenland) within the time frame AD 1500Ð1850. This was a period of rapid and far-reaching social, political and economic change, from feudal Europe through political revolution, industrialisation, development of international trade, religious upheaval and technological innovation; changes impacting on every aspect of life and reflected in equally rapid and widespread changes in fashion at all levels of society. These papers present a broad image of the theme of fashion as a concept and as an empirical manifestation in the Nordic countries in early modernity, exploring a variety of ways in which that world encountered fashionable impressions in clothing and related aspects of material culture from Europe, the Russian Empire, and far beyond. The chapters range from object-based studies to theory-driven analysis. Elite and sophisticated fashions, the importation of luxuries and fashion garments, christening and bridal wear, silk knitted waistcoats, woollen sweaters and the influence of the whaling trade on womenÕs clothing are some of the diverse topics considered, as well as religious influences on perceptions of luxury and aspects of the garment trade and merchant inventories.
Next in order come the Similar - winged insects , so called from both the upper and under wings being constructed after the same fashion . All four wings are of a membranous character , and are all used in flight .
12 “ There is in every workroom a fashion , a habit of work , ” wrote efficiency consultant Henry Gantt , " and the new worker follows that fashion ... 16See''What One Trade Has Done , " John Swinton's Paper 112 The Labor History Reader.
Author: Daniel J. Leab
Publisher: University of Illinois Press
Category: Business & Economics
The Labor History Reader celebrates the first quarter century of the premier journal in its field and provides the richest available source of contemporary thought on American labor history. The result is not only a revealing look at the history of American labor but also a better understanding of our changing attitudes toward that history.''The ......
... Collections of Colonial Dress and Fashion in Australia' in J. B. Eicher (ed.), Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, Oxford and New York: Berg. Riello, G. and McNeil, P. (2010), 'Introduction: The Fashion History Reader: ...
Author: Charlotte Nicklas
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
The field of dress history has experienced exponential growth over the past two decades. This in-depth investigation examines the expanding borders and porous boundaries of the discipline today, outlining key debates and showcasing the most exciting research. With international case studies from a wide range of scholars, the volume encompasses work from a variety of historical periods from the late 18th century to the present day. Contributors examine, critique and expand the methodologies and sources used in fashion history, analyse how dress is collected, displayed and sold, and investigate clothing's meanings and uses in the practice of identity. Exploring overlooked territories and new approaches to analysis, the book offers students and scholars a fresh appraisal of dress history in the 21st century.
Diana Crane, “Clothing behaviour as non-verbal resistance: Marginal women and alternative dress in the nineteenth century,” in The Fashion History Reader: Global Perspectives, eds Giorgio Riello and Peter McNeil (London: Routledge, ...
Author: Denise Amy Baxter
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
During the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries the production of dress shifted dramatically from being predominantly hand-crafted in small quantities to machine-manufactured in bulk. The increasing democratization of appearances made new fashions more widely available, but at the same time made the need to differentiate social rank seem more pressing. In this age of empire, the coding of class, gender and race was frequently negotiated through dress in complex ways, from fashionable dress which restricted or exaggerated the female body to liberating reform dress, from self-defining black dandies to the oppressions and resistances of slave dress. Richly illustrated with over 100 images and drawing on a plethora of visual, textual and object sources, A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Age of Empire presents essays on textiles, production and distribution, the body, belief, gender and sexuality, status, ethnicity, and visual and literary representations to illustrate the diversity and cultural significance of dress and fashion in the period.
“The Birth of Fashion.” In The Fashion History Reader: Global Perspectives, ed. Giorgio Riello and Peter McNeil, 25–39. London: Routledge. Higonnet, Anne. 1998. Pictures of Innocence: The History and Crisis of Ideal Childhood.
Author: Susan B. Kaiser
Publisher: A&C Black
Bridging theory and practice, this accessible text provides an introduction to fashion from both cultural studies and fashion studies perspectives, and addresses the growing interaction between the two fields. Cultural studies relies on fashion to exemplify change as well as continuity, examine identity and difference, agency and structure, and production and consumption. Fashion, meanwhile, benefits from the interpretative lens of cultural studies; its key concepts, contextual flexibility, and attention to bridging 'high' and 'popular' culture, contemporary and historical perspectives, and diverse identity issues and methodologies. Organised thematically, the book uses a wide range of cross-cultural case studies to explore ethnicity, class, gender and nation through fashion, and explains the ways in which these notions interact and overlap. Drawing on intersectionality theory in feminist theory and cultural studies, Fashion and Cultural Studies is essential reading for students and scholars.
In The Fashion History Reader Global Perspectives, edited by Giorgio Riello and Peter McNeill, 329–31. London-New York: Routledge. Vergani, Guido. 2004. Carceni Domenico. In Dizionario della moda, edited by Guido Vergani, 205–206.
Author: Giovanna Motta
Publisher: Cambridge Scholars Publishing
This book arises from an international conference held at Sapienza University in Rome, Italy, in May 2015, and it includes papers by important Italian scholars of fashion. It is dedicated to one of the main indicators of social change, fashion, analysed within different scientific fields, historical periods, and geographical areas. This volume deals with issues of economy and fashion, copyright, industrial designs, trademarks, trade secrets, and patents, as well as new communication devices and strategies in the era of increasing globalization and market integration. Contributions analyze fashion blogs, fashion communication strategies, relations between fashion and technology, social media, grass-roots communication, social and cultural aspects of digital technologies, mobile fashion applications, and the dynamic fashion system in the virtual world. Visual identification symbols of fashion details, such as the Catalan hat or the Basque beret, the concept of “Made in Italy” and its success in the world, and new materials and technological innovations are also explored.